Welt shoe and method of making same



Aug. 27, 1935. F. MACCARONE 2,012,914

WELT SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed April 4, 1934 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 INVENTOR He'd Maccarone A TORNEYS 1935. F. MACCARONE 2,012,914

WELT SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed April 4, 1934 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 lNVENfOR [Fed Mawarone Patented Aug. 27, 1935 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE WELT SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Fred Maccarone, Brooklyn, N. Y., assignor to Del- My invention relates to shoes and shoe makmg.

As is well known, there are several types or classes of shoe constructions, among which are welt shoes and those types having an upper secured in lasted relation to an insole which, in turn, carries an outsole. Because of their flexibility, light weight and low cost, these latter types have become quite popular, particularly in shoes for womens wear. I have found that the principal disadvantages of such light structures have been that they do not hold their shape as well as do welt shoes and difficulty is experienced in properly resoling them. I

A principal object of my invention, therefore, is to provide an improved shoe in which the advantages of both types of construction are combined, thus providing a light, flexible and inexpensive shoe which will maintain its lasted form and which may be readily and properly resoled.

Another principal object is to provide an improved and less expensive method of making welt shoes, and other and further objects will appear from the following specification.

The method I have devised for producing the structure here disclosed is a modification or improvement of a shoe making method taught by me in my copending application Serial No. 715,853 filed March 15, 1934.

My present invention has particular advantage when adapted to shoes having insoles perforate over the central area of the ball portion, as

for forming an artificial lip and a channel adjacent the ball and shank margins of the insole.

Figure 3 is a partial section, taken on line 33 of Figure 2 showing the reinforced insole positioned on an appropriate last.

Figure 4 is a similar section showing the upper temporarily stapled to the lip.

Figure 5 is a similar view showing a flanged welt positioned in the channel and stitched through-and-through' to the upper and the lip.

Figure 6 illustrates the manner in which the upper, the lip and the welt are trimmed.

Figure '7 illustrates the removal of a central area of the reinforcing means.

Figure 8 is a similar section showing an out-- 5 sole overlying the insole and welt and stitched to the welt.

Figure 9 is a perspective view of a finished shoe embodying the features of my invention from which a portion has been broken away to dis- 10 close the assembled relationship of the insole, outsole, welt and upper.

Figure 10 is a partial section of the shoe on a larger scale showing the finished assembly.

All the illustrations are exaggerated to clearly 5 bring out the features of my invention and are not intended to represent the proportions of an actual construction.

l5 indicatesan insole perforate over the central area of the ball portion and having the mar-' 0 gins of its perforate area skived or beveled, as shown. In carrying out my invention, I provide a layer l6 of reinforcing material, such as canvas, which is aflixed to the insole by means of stitching 11 extending inside of and in conform- 25 ity with the side edges of the shank, ball and toe portions of the insole. The free edges of the reinforcing layer are then turned up substantially perpendicular to the insole to form a marginal lip or flange l8 and to define an angular artificial 30 channel I9 between the lip and the edge of the insole. I

When employed in making shoes having perforate insoles, as illustrated, the layer It serves to reinforce the insole and prevent stretching thereof in the lasting operations, and obviates the necessity of the patch usually pasted on the inner side of the insole for that purpose.

The insole, carrying the layer 16, is then positioned on an appropriate last 20, as shown in 40 Figure 3, and the edges of an upper 2| are then pulled over the last into the artificial channel I9 and attached to the lip or flange 18, as by means i of a plurality of staples 2l2l etc., to temporarily hold the upper in lasted relation to the insole.

I prefer to apply an appropriate adhesive cement in the channel 19 to further and permanently secure-the upper and, when this is done, the lip 18 serves effectually to dam the cement from flowing over the surfaces of the insole where. it is not desired.

A welt 23, having a flanged inner edge 23, is next positioned in the channel 19 and is stitched through and through to the marginal edge of the upper and the he as illustrated in Figure 5,

wherein the stitching is indicated at 24, after which the welt flange, upper and lip are trimmed away above the stitching 24 and below the staples 22 as illustrated in Figure 6. In afiixing the welt, cement may be employed to supplement the stitching if desired.

The upper is lasted to the insole over the heel portion of the shoe by the usual bad lasting operations because of the counter construction of the shoe, and, where the shoe is of box toe construc tion, I also prefer to follow conventional and well known methods of lasting over the toe area.

When the upper has been completely lasted, the

entral area of the reinforcing layer I6 is cut away on lines extending parallel to and inside of the stitching H, as illustrated in Figure 7. An outsole 25 is then superimposed, pounded down and secured in position as shown in Figure 8. The outsole may be secured to the welt by means of stitching 26, or by nailing, or it may be cemented to the welt and the insole, but I prefer to employ both the stitching and cement.

The remaining steps necessary to complete the shoe, such as the attachment of a heel 21, are performed in the usual manner.

Constructed as above, my improved shoe comprises an insole having a separate marginal lip member conforming with its edge, an upper and a welt secured to the lip member, and an outsole secured to the welt. This construction is economical, light and flexible. Being free of filler, such as has heretofore characterized welt shoes, the construction permits of a substantially greater-wearing thickness of outsole material without sacrificing lightness of weight. The welt lends to the shoe all the principal advantages of conventional welt construction including a substantially leak-proof seam, permanent shape and ready resolability.

I claim:

1. A shoe comprising an insole, a marginal lip member secured to the insole and extending inside of and in conformity with an edge thereof, an upper and a welt secured to said member, and an outsole secured to said welt, said outsole being elevated in thickness over the central area of its ball portion and said insole having an opening therein to receive the elevated area of the outsole, the elevated area of the outsole being disposed flush with the upper surface of the insole.

2. A shoe comprising an insole, a marginal lip member stitched to the insole and extending inside of and in conformity with an edge thereof, an upper having an edge margin cemented to the insole adjacent said member, a welt underlying the edge margin of the upper, stitching securing said welt to said member, and an outsole secured to said welt.

3. A shoe comprising an insole, a marginal lip member stitched to the insole and extending inside of and in conformity with an edge thereof, an upper having an edge margin cemented to the insole and extending in facing engagement with said member, a welt underlying the edge margin of the upper and cemented thereto, stitching securing the welt, the upper and said member together, and an outsole secured to said welt.

4. A shoe comprising an insole and an outsole in facing engagement over areas intermediate their margins, a marginal lip member secured to the underside of the insole, an upper secured to the margins of the insole adjacent said member, a welt secured to said member, and means securing the outsole to said welt.

5. A shoe comprising an insole and an outsole in facing engagement over areas intermediate their margins, a marginal lip member secured to the underside of the insole, an upper secured to the margins of the insole adjacent said member, a welt secured to said member, and means securing the outsole to said welt, said outsole being elevated in thickness over the central area of its ball portion and said insole having an opening therein to receive the elevated area of the outsole, the elevated area of the outsole being disposed flush with the upper surface of the insole.

6. A shoe comprising an insole and an outsole in facing engagement over areas intermediate their margins, a marginal lip member stitched to the underside of the insole and extending in conformity with an edge'thereof, an upper having an edge margin secured to the underside of the insole and extending in facing engagement with said member, a welt underlying the edge margin of the upper, stitching securing the welt, the upper and said member together, and an outsole secured to said welt, said outsole being elevated in thickness over the central area of its ball portion and said insole having an opening therein to receive the elevated area of the outsole, the elevated area of the outsole being disposed fiush with the upper surface of the insole.

7. The method of making a welt shoe which comprises: affixing a layer of material over a surface of an insole intermediate the edges thereof, saidlayer having a free marginal edge portion to provide an artificial lip, securing an edge portion of an upper and a weltto said lip,

removing said layer over an area intermediate the flanged marginal edge portions thereof, and securing an outsole to said welt in contact with said insole.

8. The method of making a welt shoe which comprises: aflixing a layer of material over a surface of an insole intermediate the edges thereof, said'layer having flanged marginal edge portions extending from the surface of the insole to form an artificial lip and to define a marginal chanr nel, securing an edge portion of an upper in said channel, securing a welt in said channel to said lip, removing said layer over an area intermediate the flanged marginal edge portions thereof, and securing an outsole to said welt in contact with said insole.

9. The method of making a welt shoe which comprises: aflixing a layer of material to an insole by means of through-and-through stitching extending inside of'and in conformity with the edges of the insole, said layer having a free marginal edge, sewing an edge portion of an upper and a welt to the free edge, of said layer, removing said layer over an area intermediate said stitching, and securing an outsole to said welt in contact with said insole.

FRED MACCARONE. 

